Q: How do you know you've had enough for tonight?
A: Your fork only has a single tooth, but it came with 4 handles!
I'm really impressed with your interpretation. My point was supposed to be _handled_ the other way around
I am able to read the directory on 5.0.x
You said you can't ls that directory over NFS. Reading directories is pretty much the only thing ls does. Cd does not read directories. It simply enters them. The former needs r permission, the latter needs x. In case of directories, both bits are independent of each other.
Deamon translating UIDs on the client to UIDs on the server was added much earlier. I think it was around the same time NFS4 came out, though those 2 things were mostly unrelated. The intended purpose was to replace matching users on numeric IDs with matching users on names. If you have any differences in /etc/passwd between systems, you can run into some weird problems when enabling or disabling this feature.
Anyway... NFS doesn't log much by default. Try enabling debug log and then messing around with your client. Maybe it would simply tell you what's the problem?