Posting this message from under GNOME in Xvesa...
First, how I got it working: I exported the WANT_AUTOCONF and WANT_AUTOMATE environment variables that were mentioned earlier in this thread, then copypasted the commands in the Install Guide into a terminal. This part was rather trivial (except that I had to configure sudo for it, but then again, that's something I should have done ages ago). I could have just as well used the script, but ah well.
Then, running the server: My graphics are run by a Radeon 7500 so I chose Xvesa. The command line that got the mouse wheel working was
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sudo /opt/fdo/bin/Xvesa -ac -screen 1280x1024x32 r -dpi 96 -mouse /dev/psaux,5 &
. Then I just ran
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env DISPLAY=:0 LD_LIBRARY_PATH=/opt/fdo/lib /opt/fdo/bin/xcompmgr &
to start the compositing manager and
for GNOME. This was without an X server already running, of course.
On to the impressions. I'm... impressed. There's a lot of stuff that doesn't work, of course - several extensions are absent, there's severe breakage in key mappings (*), etc.. but those seem to me like stuff that should be more or less trivially fixable once the server gains wider use. It's also a bit on the unstable side - I've had two crashes already (Xvesa crashes and leaves the keyboard and screen unusable), both of which I've gotten up from by starting XFree from a different computer with ssh. Of course it's rather slow, too - that's to be expected. Hardware acceleration will come later, I'm sure.
And yes, it's cool. Not only for those translucency effects (I played a movie under a translucent menu just to watch the smooth composition), but for that it's already this far. If this is the kind of development speed that the XFree86 project's inertia has barred, then damnit, it's about time they got some serious competition...
(*) Of course I could fix most of this stuff with xmodmap, but there's some stuff that I don't quite understand... for example, why autorepeat works for any other key but cursor-down... except that, hell, now it seems to work for that, too

. I guess I just need to know the internals of X's keyboard model better...